作为意大利葡萄酒之王,“四雅”之一,最贵的巴巴莱斯科,嘉雅一直是世界名酒的代名词之一。Wine searcher 截图时间 2019/07/17因为某些原因嘉雅 3 个单一园未归类到巴巴莱斯科,但嘉雅才是最贵的酒圈里的人推崇嘉雅,因为大家知道在世界葡萄酒的发展史上,嘉雅家族和拉菲罗斯柴尔德家族的地位不相上下。甚至一些懂行的当红明星,也会选择嘉雅葡萄酒与亲朋分享。贝克汉姆在家庭聚会中与家人分享嘉牙今天,就来好好说道说道这个世界葡萄酒中的传奇吧。
从小酒馆到意大利葡萄酒之王,这背后发生了什么?名字没写错,家族里男孩继承祖父的名字,在欧洲比较常见从左至右分别是Rossana、Giovanni和Gaia,他们是酒庄第5代1、一出世就走在时代前端。
嘉雅家族源自西班牙,在17世纪时期迁移到意大利西北部的皮埃蒙特(Piemonte)。200多年后, 嘉牙 酒庄 的第一代创始人乔万尼·嘎亚(Giovanni Gaja)在巴巴莱斯科小镇上开了一家小酒店,而为了节约成本,他决定自己酿造,因此他开始种植自己的土地上的葡萄。在19世纪末时,由于他的酿造技术很高水平,他的一些产品被装瓶运往前线,这对于当时来说是一个了不起的事情,因为直到20世纪60年代后期,当地的大部分农民才开始装瓶销售。
1912年,一心一意走上了酿造路线。这一年之后,不再做小酒店生意,一心一意走上了酿造之路。一切都有其缘故,如同一个神秘故事里的角色一样,那个安杰罗·嘎亚(Angelo Gaja),他扩大了家族所有拥有的一切,并且以妻子克洛蒂尔·雷(Clotilde Rey)的帮助为公司定下“高端”的目标。他认为,只要是一款品质极佳,即使价格较高,也仍然能够获得消费者的信任。
随着时间流逝,他影响了第三代继承人的乔万尼·嘎亚。他只将那些年的份好的产品放入市场,同时差劣年份则直接散布给消费者。在二战之后,乔万尼收购了更多土地,使得 嘎亚 成为那个时候最大的企业。而那三个著名的小块——圣罗伦佐、苏里帝丁以及罗斯海岸——便是在那个时候购买到的。此外,还标注着醒目的“GAJA”字体标志的是他们第一批贴着这样的标志性的产品自1937年以来,它们已经成为了 意大利美味佳肴 的代表性象征。大多数人可能不知道其他产区,但几乎每个人都知道 嘎亚 ——这就是它所拥有的力量。
1961年 安杰罗完成学习并加入公司工作,被誉为 “ 意大利 葡萄 wine 教父”。他的作品被全世界最高权威评估机构帕克评价为:安杰罗•嘎亚 的作品非常卓越,而且出现在全球最知名餐桌上和私藏室中,为皮埃蒙特乃至整个 Italy 赢得了一席之地,这些事实激励了新一代制作者。但即使没有支持者或朋友的时候,他依旧努力提高质量打通海外市场,不让这些财富荒废,最终成功实现这一点。他还成为《 Italian Wine Yearbook 2013》唯一五星级企业,以及Italy “Four Ya’s”之一,与Sassicaia, Solaia and Ornellaia齐肩而立,是无疑地成为Italian wine king.
现在 安杰洛的大女儿 Gaia Gaja 接管了公司,她是历史上第一位女性掌门人。不过她的妹妹 Rossana 和弟弟 Giovanni 以及他们父亲也在维族公司工作,或许由于更多女性参与会社,她们新年的作品比以往更加优美,更少桶味。Gaia曾说她童年的印象最深的是祖父喝醇香液面的样子:“刚开始,只倒两滴,然后花特别长时间转动杯子,我觉得这是祖父对醇香液面尊重的一种方式。”
如今 Gabajawinery 拥有大约101公顷广阔土地分布于Barolo and Barbaresco区域,可以细分32个不同的地块,每年度生产30,000箱各种类型果汁,其中以其顶尖Barbaresco闻名。此外,Gabafamily 在其他地区也逐渐收购了一系列winerys 和vineyards. Like in1994 year they acquired Pieve Santa Restituta winery in Brunello di Montalcino region with a vineyard area of 27 hectares; in1996 year they bought Ca'marcanda winery in Tuscany's Bolgheri region with a vineyard area of110 hectares mainly cultivating international grape varieties; and in2017 year they purchased over21ha land on the slopes of Mount Etna on Sicily to establish a new winery.
Gabafamily's philosophy is "artisanal spirit", which is the most valuable treasure for Gabawinery. They have an independent pursuit, never compromising their style. This is a personalized approach without compromise. The founder Anjeo learned from his experience living and studying in London that people had very bad stereotypes about Italian wines - only low-end wines were sold at Italian restaurants. He felt that the traditional old-fashioned style of Piedmont was somewhat pitiful, so he decided to make some drastic changes. He was always racing against time, busy as could be, speaking quickly like someone driving fast cars.
The neighbors still remember when Angelo opened up his tractor speeding through the countryside roads around Barbaresco at age 21 because he felt that Italy's wines were falling behind too much - only by taking action swiftly could one avoid being left behind by history.
So after taking over the company he started several big-scale reforms right away:
1- Following Bordeaux and California fine wines as models to seek smoothness
At first it involved drastically reducing grape yields
Angele first implemented Green Harvest (removing inferior grapes before harvest) then stopped buying grapes strictly selecting high quality ripe ones for production purposes
He pioneered making these wines depart from heavy tannins characteristic styles common here while drawing inspiration from French Bordeaux & American California fine wines for elegant smoothness , yet not losing original flavors . To achieve this , Gabawinery began aging its products small oak barrels since1970s . Small barrels speed up maturation process , single tannin & overall quality becoming smoother .
He imported oak wood from France then let them dry out locally under guidance of local barrel makers creating barrels fitting his needs .